Guide to Vienna and Prague Christmas Markets (+Cesky Krumlov!)
Let's be honest, pretty much everything is better in Europe, and the Christmas Markets (aka the happiest places on earth) are no exception. As if Central Europe’s historic cities aren’t beautiful enough—picture brightly lit city centers and cozy stalls nestled in front of regal palaces. Last year, I took a mother-daughter trip to Vienna, Ceský Krumlov, and Prague during Christmastime and it was absolutely magical. With many markets closed in 2020, I'm reliving this amazing trip and hope that this guide will inspire you to visit Europe in the Advent season as soon as it’s safe again. Frohe Weinachten!
In This Post
VIENNA — Getting There • Where to Stay • What to Eat • Visiting the Markets • Tips
CESKÝ KRUMLOV — Getting There • Where to Stay • What to Eat • Visiting the Markets • Tips
PRAGUE — Getting There • Where to Stay • What to Eat • Visiting the Markets • Tips
VIENNA
Vienna is one of the most beautiful capitals in central Europe, known for its many famous residents and for being the seat of the Hapsburg empire for hundreds of years. Already entrenched in history and culture, the city transforms into a winter wonderland during the Advent season. With Baroque palaces serving as backdrops to charming markets, and the smell of gingerbread and red wine filling the air—Vienna is the perfect city to visit for Christmas.
Getting There
Aer Lingus has lots of flight deals from BOS>VIE. We had a brief layover in Dublin and landed in the afternoon in Vienna. I recommend flying out on a Thursday or Friday night and then arriving back home on a Sunday to maximize an 8 or 9-day trip!
Where to Stay
Central is always better, so aim for accommodations that are walking distance from the main sites or super close to public transit stops. We stayed in an Airbnb about a 12-minute walk from St. Stephen’s Cathedral. We were tucked away on a quiet street with plenty of stores and a farmer’s market nearby but had easy access to the city center in just a few minutes. If you prefer hotels, you’ll find plenty in the city center but they’ll definitely be a bit pricier than Airbnb.
What to Eat (Gluten-Free)
All in all, Vienna was a pretty gluten-friendly city! I did pretty extensive research beforehand and came up with this big ol’ list of gluten-free eats. We didn’t have time to try everywhere on our list, and I should probably mention that as much as I love eating, I’m not exactly a foodie traveler. I tend to forget to eat while traveling–I get too wrapped up in exploring! With that being said, our most frequented stop was the pasta chain, Vapiano (LOL I know, real authentic, right?). Kinda like Chipotle but Italian-inspired, it was affordable, quick, and tasty so we ended up eating here at least 3 times…oops!
Gasthaus Zum Wohl – Entirely GF, personally didn’t love the food (we may have just ordered the wrong thing, though – we encountered far too many caraway seeds for our liking) but the bruschetta was tasty, there were tons of options and a good gluten-free sour beer!
Nestroy Gasthaus & Biergarten – yummy schnitzel in a charming setting, the service was super friendly and we enjoyed just hanging out in the very Viennese surroundings.
Vapiano – Plenty of GF pizza and pasta options; quick, cheap, and tasty! Employees were knowledgeable about cross-contamination. This is a chain so you’ll find them sprinkled around Europe!
Cafe Central – Very touristy; you’ll probably have to wait in line to get inside this famous cafe, but honestly the coffee and pastries were delicious. The atmosphere is gorgeous, and if you can get in without waiting in a ridiculously long line, we felt like it was worth it! Anything that was GF was labeled in the dessert case and the servers were very helpful.
More Options (that we didn’t get around to)
— Pizzeria Scarabocchio
— Blueorange
— Aida
— Allergiker Café
— Gasthaus am Predigtstuhl
— Restaurant Lebenbauer
— ef16 Restaurant
— Restaurant Fuhrich
— The Guesthouse Brasserie & Bakery
— Cafe Sacher Wien
— Kurkonditorei Oberlaa
Visiting the Markets
There are dozens of markets in Vienna, from the huge markets at the Rathaus or St. Stephan’s Cathedral, to smaller markets where you’ll find fewer crowds and more local shopping. My very favorite was the elaborate Viennese Dream Market at Rathausplatz, complete with an ice skating rink, live choir, and a tree that puts Rockefeller center to shame. I also loved the slightly quieter market at Maria-Theriesien-Platz, sandwiched between two stunning museums, and the even smaller arts & crafts market, Am Hof, filled with locals selling authentic handicrafts. For an even more magical atmosphere, the stunning markets at Belvedere Palace and Schönbrunn are well worth a visit. If you’re just in it for the beautiful décor, take a walk down the shopping streets Graben and Kärntner Straße and enjoy the elegant chandeliers lighting the way.
Markets to Check Out
— Rathaus Market (Viennese Dream Market)
— Stephansplatz Market
— Am Hof Advent Market
— Maria Theresien Market
— Belvedere Market
— Altes AKH (Old Hospital)
— Spittelberg
— Karlsplatz (Art Advent)
— Riesenradplatz
— Old Viennese Market
Market Tips
There are tons of food and sweets to try – maroni (roasted chestnuts), bratkartoffeln (fried potatoes), and kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes) are some local favorites. Skip dinner one night and eat at the markets!
When ordering the iconic glühwein (sweet, warm, red wine simmered with spices), you’ll pay a pfand (deposit) for the mug. The mugs are unique to each market and you can either keep them or return them for your money back. You might end up collecting a lot of mugs (we came home with 12), so make sure you bring a bag to carry them all in!
If you can, take a fiaker ride through the city center. This is touristy AF but honestly, it was one of our favorite experiences and quintessentially Viennese, as the city is famous for its horses.
Ceský Krumlov
Straddling the Vltava, medieval Ceský Krumlov is a perfect stop between Vienna and Prague. Although CK is a bustling tourist spot in the warmer months, visiting in the winter ensures that the winding cobblestone streets are just a little more tranquil for exploring. Filled with unique (and sometimes a little wacky) shops, you can get lost in the alleyways for hours. A necessary stop is the Christmas market in the historic center – the adorable pastel buildings wrapping around the square are the perfect setting for this distinctly Czech market.
Getting There
If you’re traveling from Vienna to Cesky Krumlov, there are a few options, but you may have a hard time finding something direct. If you are overnighting in CK and don’t need to get there early, buses and trains are definitely the most affordable options, but since we were only doing a short stopover, we booked an early morning direct shuttle. It was a bit pricey but it was super comfortable, and a beautiful ride seeing some of the charming villages between Austria and Czechia. We got dropped off at the CK bus station and stored our luggage there for the day for just a few CZK. If you’re headed to CK from Prague there are plenty of cheap transportation options!
Where to Stay
We didn’t stay in CK but hotels in the city center are very affordable in the off-season with some right in the town square under $100/night.
What to Eat (Gluten-Free)
Cesky Krumlov is pretty small and fairly lean on GF options. We only ended up trying one place but I found a few other options in my searches:
Papa’s Living Restaurant – we ate here for lunch and dinner and had super friendly service and an easy time finding gluten-free items (clearly marked) on the menu. The tomato soup was delicious, as was the salmon and ribs!
More Options (that we didn’t get around to)
— Laibon
— Tavern of the Two Maries
— Le Jardin Restaurant
Visiting the Markets
The market in the main square was nothing short of magical, with the gorgeous pastel buildings surrounding the glittering stalls. It’s pretty small so you can see it all in just a half-hour or so, but once you’re done at the market, take a hot chocolate on the road and stroll through the adorable streets, exploring some of the shops.
Tips
While researching this trip I saw a lot of blogs saying to definitely spend a night or two in CK. While the town was adorable and we definitely could have found things to do, I personally didn’t think an overnight was necessary and we were happy with just spending a few hours visiting the market and roaming around. It was a perfect stop between two bigger cities!
Prague
Prague is one of the most stunning cities in Europe; think cobblestone streets, tiny alleys, and hundreds of church spires, it is truly a magical place. During the Advent season, Prague has a decidedly different feel and fewer markets than its German-speaking counterparts, but the medieval charm of the city draped in lights makes this already gorgeous place look like a snow globe come to life. The warmth and hospitality of the Czech people comes through in Prague’s holiday décor and every corner of the city feels homey and inviting.
Getting There
If you’re heading to Prague straight from Vienna, there are lots of trains and buses that’ll only take about 4 hours. From Cesky Krumlov, it was a 2-hour, super cheap bus journey between the main bus stations. There are shuttles available as well, which are a bit more comfortable but definitely pricier. If you’re flying directly to Prague, check out Aer Lingus, EasyJet, or Ryanair for affordable flight deals.
Where to Stay
We stayed at a great Airbnb just 9 minutes from Old Town square, but I would recommend booking accommodations as early as possible for the holiday season, I booked about 4 months out and it was slim pickings!
What to Eat (Gluten-Free)
Prague has gotten more and more gluten-friendly over the years and has some of my favorite food in Central Europe. Cozy and hearty, it’s perfect for winter.
Svejk U Karla Restaurant – Friendly service, and fairly tasty traditional Czech food. A bit gimmicky but it was a fun experience!
Good Food, Coffee and Bakery – Service wasn’t the best, but if you’ve wanted to try the trdelnik (a decidedly touristy, but delicious treat), the GF cakes here were amazing!
Alriso Risotteria Italiana – Delicious, entirely GF Italian food. We ended up here twice! The risotto is their specialty but the lasagna was amazing as well.
Joy Burger Bar – Tasty burgers in a lively, casual setting, right near the Powder Tower.
More Options (that we didn’t get around to)
— Arepas de Lyna
— Pizza Letna
— VENUE
— Mezi srnky
— Angelato (gelato and GF waffle cones)
— Lavande
— Babiccina spíz (GF bakery)
— Café Wafflé (GF waffles)
— U Magistra Kelly
— Muj Salek Kavy
— Pizza Nuova
Visiting the Markets
Prague’s markets take place in all of its major public squares, the most famous being in Old Town Square, Wenceslas Square, Republic Square (Námestí Republiky), and St. George’s Square at Prague Castle. Although the setting of Prague Castle is absolutely beautiful, the market is very small, so I’d say that Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square are more fun. Wenceslas Square is already a busy shopping street that comes to life at Christmas, with markets on both ends of the street! Smaller markets are great for avoiding the crowds, better shopping, and hanging out with the locals, so it’s worth it to make a stop at the more laid-back Peace Square (Námestí Míru) too.
Markets to Check Out
— Old Town Square
— Wenceslas Square
— Republic Square
— Peace Square
— Tyl’s Square
— Prague Castle (St. George’s Square)
Market Tips
The Old Town Market is gorgeous, but avoid visiting on the weekends, it gets PACKED! Weekdays will be less crowded so you can actually enjoy roaming around. If you’ve had your fill of svarené víno (the Czech name for mulled wine), try the traditional drink medovina, a mulled honey mead. My favorite is the almond flavor but you’ll find several varieties.
Avoid the tourist traps – keep in mind that although there are many gems to be found, the larger markets tend to carry a lot of mass-produced, overpriced items. Head to the smaller local markets for some authentic gifts.
Bundle up! Prague can get very chilly in the winter (keep in mind, I am a New Englander so I know cold winters...it was COLD AF in Prague) – wear layers and be sure to bring sneakers or boots with good traction, cobblestones can get slippery even with the slightest dusting of snow.
Keep an eye out for St. Nicholas day, usually at the beginning of December, it’s a fun Czech tradition where you can catch a glimpse of angels and devils roaming the streets to find the good kids vs. the naughty ones!
